Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble also called fat-soluble form of Vitamin C. The most popular form of Vitamin C used within skincare is L-Ascorbic Acid, which is more well known. This type of Vitamin C is water soluble So, what are the differences between both?
The Benefits of Tetrahexydecyl Ascrobate
Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate has been classed as a more premium form of Vitamin C and unlike ascorbic acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Vitamin C will not irritate the skin due it’s neutral pH of 7. This makes Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate much more of a stable formulation compared to L-Ascorbic Acid which has a lower pH which is why it can tingle and cause irritation upon application.
Higher Quantity of Ingredient
Because Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate is more stable and less irritating than L-Ascorbic Acid; it means a higher quantity of ingredient can be used within the formulation. For example, Truth Treatment Transdermal C Serum contains 80% Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate compared to other formulations for L-Ascorbic Acid which are around 10-15%.
Delivery Into The Skin
The problem with most topical forms of vitamin C is they’re water soluble and can’t make it through the lipid-rich skin barrier to reach the dermis of skin where they could have maximal benefits unless other delivery methods are employed to by-pass this barrier.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is able to successfully penetrate the epidermis and move to the layer underneath called the dermis due to it’s fat soluble form. Effective penetrate into the dermis means the ingredient works at the cellular level to reverse skin damage and discoloration.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a much more expensive ingredient than L-Ascorbic Acid. This does mean that products containing this ingredient are typically more expensive, however this is a more premium ingredient.
The Benefits of L-Ascorbic Acid
Lots Of Research
The most researched in terms of its beneficial effects on the skin. Vitamin C needs to be converted into L-Ascorbic Acid for the benefits to be seen.
L-Ascorbic Acid is has no conversation. It is already in the form accepted by the skin. It has been shown that Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate does convert to L-Ascorbic Acid, but to what extent?
There is plenty of studies that L-Ascorbic Acid works on the skin. But derivatives, including Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate are usually tested in a petri dish. That doesn’t mean the results don’t apply to humans. It just means we need more studies to prove they apply to humans.
L-Ascorbic Acid has been proven results and has proven its worthiness within the skincare industry. It is well trusted and documented.