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Hyperpigmentation: What it is, Causes, & Treatment

Expert Advice

Hyperpigmentation: What it is, Causes, & Treatment

 

Hyperpigmentation refers to the colour of your skin, which is determined by a natural pigment called melanin. It’s made by special cells in the skin called melanocytes, the pigment responsible for the colour of your skin, hair and eyes. These cells are found in the deeper layer of epidermis.

Facts

  • Everyone has roughly the same number of melanocytes regardless of skin colour

Difference:

  • Is the amount of melanin the melanocytes produce

There are two main types of melanin:

  • Eumelanin – brown to black pigment (more common in darker skin tones)
  • Pheomelanin– yellow to reddish pigment (more common in lighter skin and red hair)

Skin Colour Variation

  • Darker skin the melanocytes produce more melanin, which is more densely packed and lasts longer in the skin
  • Lighter skin the melanocytes produce less melanin which breaks down more quickly

 

Function of skin colour:

The function of skin colour goes far beyond appearance; it is a key part of the body’s defence and survival system especially in relation to sunlight and UV protection. The main functions of skin colour are.
  • Protection from UV Radiation, melanin absorbs harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun
  • Melanin helps prevent DNA damage in skin cells, which can lead to skin cancer and premature ageing
  • Darker skin, contains more melanin and offers greater protection against UV damage than lighter skin
Regulation of Vitamin D Production
  • UV light is needed for the skin to make Vitamin D, lighter skin allows more UV to pass through, which is helpful in areas with less sunlight allowing more vitamin D production
  • Darker skin blocks more UV to prevent damage in sun-rich regions, but can lead to vitamin D deficiency if people with dark skin live in low-sunlight areas
Skin tone also plays a role in cultural, identity, genetic heritage and social interaction. Skin colour is primary a protective trait shaped by environment and evolution, with a big role in shielding the body from UV damage while balancing vitamin D production.

Types of Skin Pigmentation

There are different conditions that can affect skin pigmentation either making areas darker, lighter or uneven:
1. Hyperpigmentation- too much melanin, overactive melanocytes. This causes dark patches or spots on the skin, common causes include:
  • Sun Exposure UV radiation (e.g. sunspots, freckles)
  • Hormonal changes (e.g. melasma during pregnancy, birth control pills)
  • Post-inflammatory pigmentation (after acne, eczema or injury)
  • Medications or certain diseases
2. Hypopigmentation – too little melanin, underactive or destroyed melanocytes. This causes lighter patches of skin colour, includes conditions such as:
  • Vitiligo- autoimmune condition where melanocytes are destroyed
  • Albinism- a genetic condition with little or no melanin present from birth affecting the whole body
  • Skin damage-from burns, infections or injuries
3. Depigmentation-complete loss of pigment due to the cells that produce melanin are no longer functioning or present. This is more severe than hypopigmentation and can occur in conditions like vitiligo, burns,
chemical injuries and rare infections like leprosy etc.
Maintaining even skin pigmentation involves a combination approach, preserving good skin health practices, sun protection, healthy lifestyle habits and in some targeted treatments. Skin lightening or brightening ingredients are used to reduce dark spots, hyperpigmentation, melasma, uneven skin tone and sometimes overall brightening (evening out tome) and lightening (reducing melanin). It is important to distinguish between brightening and lightening, as the latter can be controversial if misused or applied to change your natural skin tone.
Topical Skin ingredients that are commonly used and effective for skin lightening/brightening range in potency from gentle to strong.
  1. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) brightens skin, reduces dark spots, antioxidant, good for all skin types, recommend concentrations of 10% to 20%
  2. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) helps to inhibit melanin transfer to skin cells, good for all skin types especially sensitive or oily skin, works well with other actives like retinol or vitamin C
  3. Alpha Arbutin inhibits tyrosinase (enzyme in melanin production), gentle alternative to hydroquinone, good for hyperpigmentation, melasma and uneven tone
  4. Liquorice Root Extract soothes skin, reduces inflammation and melanin production, good for sensitive skin, redness, post-acne marks
  5. Kojic Acid inhibits tyrosinase, reduces melanin production, good for PIH Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, age spots, can be irritating to sensitive skin, best in short term use
  6. Azelaic Acid helps to reduce pigmentation, acne and rosacea symptoms, good for sensitive, acne-prone skin available in OTC (over the counter) 10% and prescription 15%-20% strengths
  7. Tranexamic Acid reduces melanin production and improves melasma, good for stubborn pigmentation, works well in combination with other ingredients like vitamin C
  8. Retinoids (Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Tretinoin (POM) speeds up cell turnover, fades dark spots over time, good for most skin types though sensitive skin needs to build tolerance, must use with sunscreen as retinoids make the skin more sun-sensitive
  9. Hydroquinone (use with Caution, Prescription Medicine) is a powerful skin-lightening agent a strong melanin inhibitor, only to be used for short periods up to 6 months
  10. Mandelic Acid/Glycolic Acid (AHAs) help exfoliate top layer of skin cells, fades pigmentation, good for mall skin types (Mandelic is gentler), use with moisturiser and SPF to protect skin barrier

 

Tips for safe use:

Always patch test new ingredients, use broad-spectrum sunscreen daily as sun exposure will undo brightening effects and worsen pigmentation, avoid combining to many actives at once start slowly and be confident in how your skin reacts and build tolerance slowly rather than inflaming skin and impairing your skin barrier. Long term healthy skin is the objective and is better than fast bleaching results or using
lightening creams that are unregulated often found to contain mercury or steroids.

MEDIFINE TOP RECOMMENDATIONS

 

Sente | Cysteamine HSA Pigment & Tone Corrector

SENTE Facial Treatment 1.7 fl. oz. Sente Cysteamine HSA Pigment & Tone Corrector - Skin Type Solutions

Cysteamine HSA Pigment & Tone Corrector is a next generation pigment cream combining Cysteamine and patented Heparan Sulfate Analog (HSA) to effectively improve the appearance of stubborn discoloration and even skin tone.

Key Ingredients
  • Heparan Sulfate Analog: A patented repairing molecule that boosts the skin’s immune response to inflammation, which can cause hyperpigmentation, while promoting a healthy skin barrier to help minimize irritation.
  • Cysteamine HCI: A powerful antioxidant that reduces the oxidative stress that contributes to hyperpigmentation and works at multiple points in the hyperpigmentation cycle to reduce the appearance of dark spots.

Pro Tip  – This is a 16 week course using daily then moving over to using 1-2 times a week for maintenance. Suitable for sensitive skin and safe for continued, long-term use. 

 

The Perfect Peel | Hit Reset 50ml

Hit Reset

Hit Reset is designed to regenerate the skin, brighten and even skin tone, while fighting the signs of ageing and free radical damage.

Its unique blend including Glutathione, Tranexamic Acid, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, and Arbutin, reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation.

The formula also includes Squalane, Liquorice, Aloe Vera, Niacinamide, Glycerin, and a range of other nourishing ingredients to provide intense hydration and nourishment to the skin. The Encapsulated Retinol Complex helps to stimulate collagen production, leaving your skin looking smoother and more youthful.

Pro Tip – Not for the faint hearted! It’s potent, so start slow. Too much too soon can cause irritation. It’s stays a little tacky after application, so let it dry before applying 5-a-Day.

 

ALASTIN Skincare | A-LUMINATE Brightening Serum 50ml

 

 

Helps reduce the appearance of surface pigmentation, minimize recurrence and protect against future damage – through a clinically proven, non-irritating formula.

KEY INGREDIENTS

  • PATH-3 Technology – Helps to minimize the recurrence of surface pigmentation and protect against future damage with continued use.
  • Tranexamic Acid – Encapsulated in a liposome, it helps correct the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
  • Niacinamide – Helps to reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone & supports skin’s barrier function

Pro Tip – This is a pregnancy and breastfeeding safe skin care option for treating hyperpigmentation 

 

iS Clinical | Extra Strength Active Peel Brightening System

iS Clinical Extra Strength Active Peel System - Art of Skin Care

This professional-grade, two-step botanical peel system delivers 15 at-home treatments designed to exfoliate, brighten, and renew the skin—offering three times the brightening and exfoliating power of the iS Clinical Active Peel System.

Step 1 is an advanced exfoliating formula featuring a potent blend of botanical AHAs, BHAs, and natural extracts to instantly resurface and renew the skin.

Step 2 neutralizes Step 1 while infusing the skin with hydration, antioxidants, and soothing ingredients. It features proprietary Extremozyme® technology to protect DNA, copper peptides to boost healing, and calming botanicals to help strengthen the skin barrier and leave the complexion feeling refreshed and balanced.

Pro Tip – For evening use and use an SPF in the day such as The Perfect Peel | Front Cover Weightless Glutathione SPF50+ 50ml

 

ZO Skin Health | Brightalive

ZO Skin Health | Brightalive

Non-retinol skin brightener formulated to even skin tone, reduce dark spots and restore hydration, while calming and soothing irritated skin.

Active Ingredients 

  • Skin brightening complex: Unique blend of skin brighteners helps block the appearance of pigmentation
  • Papain: Provides enzymatic exfoliation to remove dead skin cells
  • Glycerin: Replenishes hydration to restore skin barrier moisture balance
  • Stachys officinalis (leaf) extract, beta-glucan, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract: Calms and soothes irritated skin

 

Pro Tip – use the ZO Get Ready System prior to Brightlive to amplify the results. A consultation is needed for ZO products, so get in touch with us for more help and assistance in ordering